From creating prominent costumes to becoming the president of the National Association of Black Fashion and Accessories Designers, Zelda Wynn Valdes knew the unpleasant times she lived in and made the most of it.
She became the first black designer to open her own boutique on the prestige streets of Broadway in New York.
Famously and not so famously known for designing the original Playboy Bunny waitress costumes, Valdes also went on to work with the Harlem Theater and create stunning pieces for director Arthur Mitchell.
1940s label
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Born in 1905, Zelda was inspired by her grandmother as a seamstress, watching her create clothes in North Carolina. It’s been said that even at a young age, Zelda had a gift for sizing her clientele.
Around 1923, she moved to New York and continued her learning as a tailor in her uncle’s tailoring shop.
Eventually, she moved on to work in an upscale boutique as a seamstress. Her skills brought her to be the first black designer to be a top clerk at the time.
Opening her boutique in 1948, made it to be the first black-owned shop in New York located on Broadway, named ‘Chez Zelda’.
This is not to be taken lightly, as it was at the pinnacle of Jim Crow laws and the fight for civil rights.
success and sales
What started as successful sales in her signature dresses, turned into her designing for celebrities from Aretha Franklin to Eartha Kit.
But it was her long-time client Ella Fitzgerald that helped showcase her skills. After only measuring the artist once, Zelda was able to adjust and resize her dress orders only through photography. She tells New York Times in 1994 that“
“I only fit her once in 12 years-I had to do everything by imagination for her”
– ZWV
One of her reoccurring customers, Joyce Bryant was mostly found in Valdes’ famous heart shaped neckline dresses. This boosted exposure for both designer and actress.
Joyce was known for her sultry voice and silver hair, and was referred to as the “Black Marilyn Monroe” (a comparison not needed) and Zelda suggested a sultry look to match the voice.
Her designs made a powerful shift in the industry. Her work shaped a woman’s curves in the most elegant fashion, promoting femininity and grace.
Josephine Baker
Aretha Franklin
Joyce Bryant
patented.
The constant celebrity exposure led the Hugh Hefner, the founder of the Playboy magazine to commission Valdes for the infamous design of his Playboy Bunny waitress attire.
What most people don’t know, is Zelda’s design became the first commercial uniform to be registered by the United States Patent and Trademark Office.
more than just bunnies
With the her new list of clientele, Zelda was selected to be the president of the New York Chapter in the National Association of Fashion and Accessory Designers (NAFAD) in 1949, creating more buzz around her career.
NAFAD consisted of black designers closing the gap between the black fashion world and the mainstream fashion industry. The group worked to provide network opportunities, professional development, and funding young designers.
In the 1960s Valdes was a known activist in her community as she directed the Fashion and Design Workshop of the Harlem Youth Opportunities Unlimited and Associated Community Teams (HARYOU-ACT).
The organizational group served to increase the educational and employment opportunities for black youth. During her time with HARYOU-ACT she taught costume designing skills.
1970 – 2001
In 1970 Valdes moved from working hands-on in her storefront to develop designs for Arthur Mitchell’s Dance Theatre of Harlem.
She designed on ballet costumes and with her attention to detail, ensured the stockings of her black dancers matched their skin color. Eventually, Valdes closed her shop in 1989 and continued to work with Mitchell until her death.
She created a total 82 ballet productions in over 22 countries.
Zelda’s story was simply inspirational, not for what she accomplished, but how she did. Reading her story open my eyes to the level of risk that has to be taken to make a change my life, and in others.
I was inspired by the time she took to hone in on her craft and not giving into the pressures of her society. The one I’m sure that was not so welcoming to her radical changes.
Becoming the first black woman to open a fashion boutique during a time where the fashion industry was filled with nepotism and racism was no risk without reward.
From Zelda I uncovered that there are things in life worth pursuing no matter how terrifying it may seem.
Doing your best could change it all.
